Change afoot on Sugarloaf and Duval
One eatery moves down the highway; another changes hands
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This landmark Duval Street eatery changed hands last month.
Kingston’s Clam Bar has moved to the Sugarloaf Lodge.
Restaurant owner Jeff Gagnon is leasing the hotel’s 150-seat restaurant from longtime lodge owner Lloyd Goode.
Kingston’s opened in its new location on Oct. 22, just in time for Fantasy Fest. It was a quick transition, but Gagnon says they’re already serving about 100 tables a night. Gagnon moved his family to the Keys a little over a year ago to open Kingston’s — the southernmost version of a 10-year-old seasonal eatery on Long Island — at the Sugarloaf Sports & Leisure Club off Crane Road. But the rest of the Hurricane Wilma-damaged club never reopened as planned, and Gagnon says it was tough to draw diners to such an isolated spot.
Moving to the lodge puts Kingston’s in a high-profile location right on the highway. Kingston’s is continuing the traditional lodge breakfast at 7 a.m. seven days a week, Gagnon says. That’s a departure for his eatery, which formerly served just lunch and dinner. And Gagnon says they’ll be pulling out all the stops for Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts.
“All the big traditions that the Sugarloaf Lodge has had, we’re going to continue them,” Gagnon says. That includes serving prime rib on Friday and Saturdays, as well as the lodge’s popular cracked conch and conch chowder.
Patrons of Sugarloaf’s bayfront tiki bar will still be able to order carryout from the restaurant’s menu, and Gagnon says they also plan to offer carryout platters for parties.
Gagnon’s West Sayville, N.Y., restaurant closed for the season at the end of September, so head chef Michael Wilson is returning to the Keys for the busy season here. He joins Keys-based chef Jim Smith. The rest of the crew is a merger of the two restaurants’ staffs, Gagnon says.
The lodge’s restaurant has a spacious dining room and seating out on the deck, with a view over the lagoon and out into the backcountry. There’s also a lounge inside. The restaurant’s menu has a decidedly New England bent, but working with Florida Keys seafood has been a welcome diversion for the New Yorkers.
Stone crab claws — served cold with a mustard sauce — are now on the menu. Gagnon says the restaurant’s catch of the day is usually dolphin or yellowtail — and grouper, when they get it. “The grouper, when you can get it fresh, is out of this world,” he says.
“We wait for the good local stuff,” he says. “It’s great to have all these Keys seafood dishes to add to our New England-style menu.”
Kingston’s Clam Bar is now at mile marker 17. The kitchen is open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and until noon Sunday. Lunch is served until 3 p.m. daily. Call 745-2289 for more information.
New owners in Key West
A Duval Street landmark changed hands last month.
Bagatelle's, 115 Duval St. in Key West, was purchased on Oct. 8 by Hassan Ladha, a Florida native who has spent the last 10 years in Philadelphia.
The $3.3 million purchase from previous owner Nola Inc. was well worth it, Ladha said. "It has such a great reputation. It has a great location. It's traditional Key West. It is Key West."
Capt. Frederick Roberts originally built the house in 1884. The unique architecture of the building is highlighted by the cuisine, blending classic French techniques and preparations with fresh, local ingredients.
Rest assured, Ladha said, "The signature dishes will always be there." He said forthcoming changes, such as a revitalized wine list, will only serve to heighten the experience.
Bagatelle serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's open 9 a.m. until 11 p.m. seven days a week.
Karen Quist and Sean Kinney contributed to this report.
